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SurfFuerteventura- Posts : 3
Join date : 2020-10-20
Location : under a volcanic rock outcropping
SMALL KID DAYZ ... L. P. Fernandez ... (copyright 2003, L. P. Fernandez)
Fri Oct 23, 2020 2:00 am
Acknowledgment... For family and friends, I hope to see again...and for the ones I never will. Mahalo for being there for me when I needed it most.
- Aloha -
The following story is fiction, it is based upon real persons and events that actually happened.
....................................................................................................
*
The sun hadn't come up over the mountains yet, but it was already starting to get kind of light outside. I could barely see the outline of all the tall coconut trees that lined the beach. The ocean was pretty quiet. It was still too dark to see if there was any surf, but I could tell it was pretty small because I couldn't hear a thing.
The Ntional Weather Service had posted High Surf advisories, they were calling big... in the 20 foot range. The bouys were going off at 25 feet, every 22 seconds. I had been up since 5:00 a.m. getting all my gear loaded up into my car and was already in the parking lot by 5:30.
I live just a short drive up the coastline from one of the most beautiful surf spots in the world. It's the most picture-perfect set-up that you'll ever see. When it's good, you can see lines of swell all the way to the horizon or as far as the eye can see.
The sky was starting to light up in the northeast and in a few minutes, the whole sky was glowing with the most vibrant shades of orange, red, pink and purple. The deep lush valleys that wound their way down the mountains were semi-shrouded in mist, you could tell it must be pouring up there because the large columns of rain slanting at an angle.
There wasn't much surf to speak of. It was really inconsistant, although every once in a while a little 2 - 3 foot wave would roll through kinda jÂĦhugging the walls of the cliffs that lined the bay, not quite big enough to cap on the outside where the take off zone is.
The conditions were perfect: there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The texture of the ocean was smooth with really light offshore winds. Its amazing what mother nature can do when she's in a good mood, it's like being rewarded for doing something good.
I was glad the tide wasn't lo either, because none of the large jagged boulders that pop up on the inside were showing (indicating that there was more water flowing over the reef) meaning it would be alot safer/deeper. I've had my share of close calls at this spot. Lost a little skin more than once from getting bounced off the bottom. The waves looked perfect when a little set would roll through, the only thing lacking was the size of the swell.
end page 1
- Aloha -
The following story is fiction, it is based upon real persons and events that actually happened.
....................................................................................................
*
The sun hadn't come up over the mountains yet, but it was already starting to get kind of light outside. I could barely see the outline of all the tall coconut trees that lined the beach. The ocean was pretty quiet. It was still too dark to see if there was any surf, but I could tell it was pretty small because I couldn't hear a thing.
The Ntional Weather Service had posted High Surf advisories, they were calling big... in the 20 foot range. The bouys were going off at 25 feet, every 22 seconds. I had been up since 5:00 a.m. getting all my gear loaded up into my car and was already in the parking lot by 5:30.
I live just a short drive up the coastline from one of the most beautiful surf spots in the world. It's the most picture-perfect set-up that you'll ever see. When it's good, you can see lines of swell all the way to the horizon or as far as the eye can see.
The sky was starting to light up in the northeast and in a few minutes, the whole sky was glowing with the most vibrant shades of orange, red, pink and purple. The deep lush valleys that wound their way down the mountains were semi-shrouded in mist, you could tell it must be pouring up there because the large columns of rain slanting at an angle.
There wasn't much surf to speak of. It was really inconsistant, although every once in a while a little 2 - 3 foot wave would roll through kinda jÂĦhugging the walls of the cliffs that lined the bay, not quite big enough to cap on the outside where the take off zone is.
The conditions were perfect: there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The texture of the ocean was smooth with really light offshore winds. Its amazing what mother nature can do when she's in a good mood, it's like being rewarded for doing something good.
I was glad the tide wasn't lo either, because none of the large jagged boulders that pop up on the inside were showing (indicating that there was more water flowing over the reef) meaning it would be alot safer/deeper. I've had my share of close calls at this spot. Lost a little skin more than once from getting bounced off the bottom. The waves looked perfect when a little set would roll through, the only thing lacking was the size of the swell.
end page 1
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